Without a guide book I rely on either other pilgrims, local people or the hospitaleros of the Albergues to find out all about the following days walk. It makes for interesting travel, though I do recomend a guide book, for those of you who are not able to go where the wind blows. I had an idea that I was in for a 20km walk to Zafra. Being a Sunday, things were closed, no-one working except a few local farmers. Antonio my host popped in to the house, busy looking for some tools he needed, he was preparing for a festival next week. He was surprised to see that I was still at the house, but happy as ever to wish me the complimentary ´buen Camino`. I finally got my bag packed and headed across the square, to have my breakfast with Matea. She was smiling bright and so chatty, as a grandmother should be, with time to spare she kept me entertained until I was ready to leave. She told me that she had seen other pilgrims pass through already this morning, so I might get to see some new faces.
The way was reletively easy for a change, now my feet were healing faster, and I even considered going back to Arcos to finish that part to Sevilla. But no, I will leave that for the end of my Camino, when I will be walking stronger. I had other reasons I wanted to go South again aswell. Some strange Magic had been working since the begining and I felt that it might be where my destiny lay. Here and there I was begining to see the first of the vines that grew here in Extremadura. Such changes over so few days, the terrain much more level here. After a couple of hours, I spied an odd sight, well rare. Another pilgrim, Wahey !! It took me about 45 minutes to catch them up, but chatting again was such a good thing. Elisabeth, a French walker, was very happy to oblige me, with an hour or so of her time. Later I sensed that she needed some privacy, so excused myself and left her to some solitude, and her blisters were holding her back too. I forged ahead through the railtrack cemetry and into Zafra alone. I had previously seen one other pilgrim ahead on the road in the distance, possibly the older gentleman that Matea had told me about. It was bit of a new experience for me, so used to seeing so many pilgrims on the Camino Frances, being spoilt for choice so to speak..
Upon arrival into Zafra, a lovely large town, I found that the Albergue here had opening times, so sat relaxing, whilst I waited for the end of the siesta period. When 5pm finally arrived, I was greeted by a young lady, pleased to see her second pilgrim of the day. Tabitha spoke a little English, though she was very shy to use it. Seemingly though, I had misunderstood the sign, which was for another building entirely, she had been open all the time, I had just needed to ring the bell..... Durghhh... Still it was a beautiful Albergue, one of the nicest, such luxury for us poor pilgrims. I soon set off to discover the town, and explore the architectural delights.
I had a feeling that I needed to wait for some reason, so found a bench in the park I had passed through earlier, watching the world go bye. Sure enough, after a few minutes had passed, a lone pilgrim passed behind me, missing the arrows, few as they were, clearly unsure as to where he needed to be. Lucky for him, I knew where the Albergue was, and he happily accepted my help to guide him there, via the short route. Klaus, a German pilgrim, of a similar age to myself, was a breath of fresh air. We soon found that we had so much in common and could share a humorous tone. Once he had checked in we set off to find somewhere we could both eat, and spent the whole evening sharing our tales of the Camino our journeys so far, and laughing ´til our sides ached. It was so good to laugh like this, a release of pent up frustrations with aching limbs and tired feet. Klaus had started his camino in Sevilla, but had also walked the other Camino, though earlier this year, and like me was keen to do another. He had returned a week or so ago and set out to reach Santiago before the bad weather was due. I had no idea what he meant by this, the climates had been good to me so far. We also found much to talk about our individual missions, and I soon realised we were of a similar creed with regards following the way of a peaceful warrior. Back finally at the Albergue, with two minutes to spare ahead of the curfew, we both were happy to get into bed and sleep off the effects of so much merriment (wine) with our meal.
Trying to get into the top bunk when you are pissed is not a clever thing to do, nor let it be said, quiet !!
Fortunately the other pilgrims were already asleep soundly.
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