I had been looking forward to arriving in Merida for several reasons. Firstly, to hopefully see, some very significant architecture from the Roman empire, and the Roman ruins. Also so that I might get a few days to catch up with the blog and rest my feet. Though in good shape, needing a rest was well on the cards.
The feeling returned throughout the day that I had missed something important about the ´Ömens`, over which Santiago had spoken some weeks ago. He had said to pay attention to them. Well Paying attention to, and becoming immersed in them was of course very different. What for example had the omen of the snake been about ? Obviously I kept a keen eye out on the ground as I walked, hoping not to surprise one and get a nasty bite !!! But I felt certain that the meaning was far more subtle thatn that with a more practical angle. What does a snake signify, was my first train of thought. Well, a snakes behaviour by nature is very secretive, quiet, hidden from view, no doubt to protect itself. From stories about ´original sin`, the snake features heavily in the assumption that a snake is somehow evil, and therefore untrustworthy. The Bible clearly defines the role of the snake as one of a malevolent and cunning creature, twisting truth ´til it is unrecognisable. But what if anything did this have to do with my feelings about its relevance in my journey ?
The walk was very relaxing, I soon caught up with a few of the group from the last evening, and walked for a while with Sacramento. A Spanish lady, widdowed, with time on her hands, like me, to follow her dreams. We talked at length about how our realities had become what we had once only dreamed of, some years ago. She had herself travelled extensively over the past few years, to places that had had an attraction to her, now that she had the time and the opportunity. I recounted my own euphoria, of only a week or so ago, when I realised that I was indeed living the life I was born to live. I had ´become`, or at least felt as though I had become, the ´World Adventurer` I had wanted to be. My other dream was to become a writer. Now, this is my reality !!! Obviously, I have yet to ´become` a published author of a book, but now I trust the Universe to grant me this reality too, if I live in harmony with my choices. Yes, of course I have had to make some sacrifices to achieve this begining of my journey towards that goal, But I feel on top of the world with my present reality...
Arriving at the gate to the city of Merida, a huge arched rail bridge, began the confusion of the way. Few clearly defined arrows, led to us getting lost for a while. We stopped for a refreshment and to ask the way, the Australian girl insisted on buying us all a drink, but I turned down the Amber nectar, in favour of the local Mahou. Paco the Ex-police officer found us our way to the Roman bridge crossing the river. It was a very long low bridge, I guessed that the Romans had realised the river levels didn´t change that much here.
We were looking for the Albergue named surprisingly, ´Pan caliente` (Hot bread). The name gave me the idea of a warm welcome, rewarding rest and solace from the journey, and some hot food in our bellies.
What we got however, was a locked door and no warm reception from our travels. Paco took charge as was his way, and rang the number scribbled on a note hanging from the door. He spoke to someone, who came staggering along to greet us fifteen minutes later. It was then that I knew why I had been thinking about the ´omens`. This guy, for whatever reason, oozed a very real and unfriendly aura. A snake in a mans body, his eyes furtive, his behaviour hidden and cunning. Now as I previously said, I try not to judge, only observe what I see and feel. Here was someone attempting to test me at this. From the very begining of his arrival, he had tried to lure us off to someplace to eat, well before we had even gotten into the Albergue and set ourselves to rest. He kept insisting that we go with him. Fortunatley a few of the group had also sensed this oddness, and like myself, resisted this coersive behaviour. Because we wouldn´t go with him, he tried to tell us that we had to leave our bags outside. What was this guy on about ? We are the pilgrims for whom this Albergue is open, are we not ?
Later I set off to see the Amphitheatre, and Roman theatre, a well known and very well preserved site. I have to say that I was really impressed by the Romans for their ingenuity and design styles. The feeling of sadness however, filled me as I sat observing the silence in the once cruel, bloody arena of death. Oh yes, you could almost hear the raised ghost voices of the baying crowds, as down below the blood curdling screams of slaves being torn apart limb from limb by the Lions, and Gladiators, were echoeing skyward........
History seemingly has taught us little about sparing one another cruelty, as I thought of our present world. How someone could enjoy the death of another human being, or animal, in such an environment was beyond my comprehension. But I left having enjoyed the experience to go back in time for a while. Seemingly Merida had been a point of great interest to the Romans in thier campaign to rule the world, as they once had. The historical significance lost on me, as I only felt the thread of death, coming from every place I walked. I thought of the odd feeling I had gotten whilst walking earlier. I had seen a stork, still whole but dead at the side of the main hyway. Now sitting here in the main plaza, infront of the townhall building, I spied another, very much alive in its nest on top of the facade. Funny, I had been told that they had all left on their winter migration to Africa, this one possibly had missed the boat.
The stork, a symbol I supposed of new life, new birth, the bringer of babies, was in contrast to my feeling of death in this place. Strange omens once more opening my eyes to things changing. And then, as before, so many times here on my present camino, a feeling arose, that I was waiting for a new connection.
That was the moment I looked up and a friendly face was smiling back at me. Tim was a young guy from down under, and I invited him to sit at the table I was sharing with Catherine the 72 year old German walker, and take a drink with us. Catherine had an arrangement to meet Hanns, her walking partner, so excused herself, wishing us a plesant evening.
"I was expecting you", I said.
"Were you ?" his reply.
"In a way, but Ill explain later, just glad you got here".
Like me Tim had followed an odd route to arrive on the Via de la Plata, and we shared stories about the way so far, in all its painful glory. He was also very encouraging about my book Idea, and it transpired that he was also attempting to write a book during his travel adventure. What an amazing coincidence. (Not) He told me that he had himself read a book written about the Camino, published by an Australian ex diplomat, that had figured heavily in his desire to come to walk across Spain. His job had been in the News paper business, and I realised that he would probably be a good source of ideas about publishing my own. If not directly, indirectly his experience would no doubt prove useful in my aims to become a published author. Also like me, like most of us who came to walk the Camino, he was dealing with the inner road to clarity. I sincerely hope that my encouragement and words, helped to open his heart and mind wider, to more wonderful paths yet to follow, of understanding and enlightenment, on the road to Santiago. I have to say a great big thanks to Tim, for his encouragement, and to ´My` Santiago, for his continued wisdom.
Then came John, the ´other` English pilgrim, who had just finished his Camino for this year here in Merida. He comes every year to do a part of the Via de la Plata, as his time allows. Together we went to eat at a place recommended by John, and spent a very pleasant evening recounting our tales of heroism and suffering, and the whole of life too.
Back at the hot bread Albergue, tensions were getting heated (No bread available) as some pilgrims (No names mentioned, You know who you are) were also feeling the negative vibe from the Hospitalero.
´Come on children, get into bed now, and cut out the talking`.
