Hurtling along the carriageway, we resumed our 4km per hour pace, and set off again towards Sevilla. The day dragged along, every place along the road, closed at some earlier time, no need for their facilities. And we two, lost in their greater scheme of life. We rested many times on our way into the future, and by one o'clock we had finally had enough, even though we had covered only half the distance. We saw many dead snakes, and smelt often the rotting carcasses off deceaced animals, a very promising omen. We found a shady patch of trees and a concrete slab above an underpass, and set about sharing what was left of yesterdays picnic. Dry bread, slices of tomato and a little imagination and we soon dined on crisp sandwiches. Simple but effective. I tried to sleep a while, but soon became chilled by the wind, laying here in the shade, so we set of once more. Further along the road we rested again at the entrance to a Cortijo. A small holding, where the farmer was towing an implement across the fields. The birds were happilly following the harrow, having pickings at the open ground and what it offered. Life was easy here, except for us pilgrims who still had some distance to cover. As the day dragged ever on, we had an occasion to stop, for Qt and I needed to check our feet. The sores were getting more obvious. I was very close to flagging down a passing motorist, and going to the airport. Heat exhaustion was becoming an ever present threat. I remembered I had some chocolate, and Qt had no objections to stopping once more to share our last meagre provisions. Along most of this modern road was a drainage ditch. A vee shaped channel, designed to carry away huge amounts of surface water, god forbid ! This so shaped sluice was a great alternative to the otherwise dusty rocky ground and was surprisingly comfortable once in the shade of a few bushes.
We ate chocolate squares, nuts and the last of our water soon dried up.
"So what will you say to your friends about this ?" I asked.
"What exactly ?" Replied QT.
"Well, when you tell them, that you finally ended up in the gutter, eating leftovers. Won`t they think that you have become a vagrant ?" I Joked.....
Through humour I was trying to raise our spirits somewhat. I had to admit that I was begining to wonder, just how long I could keep her from worrying, the next few kilometres would be hell. Somehow we made it along to a venta, and found our refreshment. I was falling asleep as we sat drinking, and Qt sat silently watching me enjoy some snoozing.
Soon, she confessed her pains were begining to become too severe to continue walking. We still had some few kilometres to cover to the next town, our destination for the day. We were actually seated at a place that had rooms to rent, but neither of us wanted , not to reach the main town. At the finish I decided to ask the driver of a car who had stopped at the venta, if he would mind giving Qt a lift as far as the town ahead. He happily agreed, he would drop her at the entrance to the town of Vejer de la frontera. I however bloody mindedly carried on the last few kilometres, finishing my walk, relieved that Qt would have to suffer no more assault on her feet that day. I reached a sign that made my heart sink. The town was still apparently 5km away, despite my seeing it on the hill above me. Qt sent a text message to this affect too, warning me of the time I would need to allow to reach her. I was sure that the village was closer , so I asked a local outside a bar at the foot of the hill. Sure enough, if I went to the left a few metres there was a narrow road that wound its way up the hillside into the town. It wasn`t open to traffic, the way too twisty and steep for most vehicles. My weary legs had still to carry me to the top, but determination soon had me in the main plaza overlooking my huge final assault. With a desire to rest and the call of cold beer I covered the last stage of my journey in under 45 minutes. I found my companion and, was finally able to rest, never so glad to have arrived anywhere.
The small town of Vejer de la frontera, was absolutely devine. A cash point, accomodation with fantstic views, and food we had quite literally, almost died for. We were going to need some time to heal Qt`s blistered feet. She seemed relieved when I finally announced that I would not let her walk the 30km to Medina Sedonia, with her feet in this condition. Apart from tired limbs and a few aches, I was ready for more. We had to enquire about travel arrangements for Qt to arrive at the town I would walk to next, and she seemed to brighten, realising she would be spared such a journey, day three of our camino. I only hope that a way to encourage a more direct route could be promoted to cater for such a walk. But of course I was the pioneer of my own route here, few people would desire to add these few hundred kilometres to the already mamouth Camino. Maybe with some consultation with the relevant authorities, a way could be found to keep my route away from the main roads and pass through the scenic countryside of southern Andalucia, whilst still including the wonderful towns here.
And so, finally in bed, eyes closing, a committment to go on for me, a consideration for Qt and her feet, the final two, had become just one.
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